a view of Kammies
country transportation
Flying into Honolulu is always incredible. From up high you can see all the reef, the mountains, rainbows, mermaids (just go with it, people) and the contrasting concrete jungle that is Waikiki. Shortly after touch down, I grabbed a rental car & floored it out of town, through the pineapple fields and into the country.
Coconut treasures
I arrived at Rochelle's to find her & a friend scaling a coconut tree for a little mid-day refresher. Uhhh... are you kidding me? I'm a city boy. I surf jetties in Los Angeles with factories in the background. I do lunch meetings. I wear an earpiece (easy, easy... only while driving!). I don't scale coconut trees. Yet, as foreign as it was... it felt like home.
After a quick hug & greet from Rochelle, I was into the house, into some shorts & out to the pacific ocean. The first couple days I played it safe, surfing a little reef called Kammies right across the street. The waves were pretty small at this point in the trip but, just being in your shorts and in clear, beautiful water is something that we all love. Every morning I'd wake up & drive over to Ted's Bakery for a coffee & breakfast (until Rochelle gave in & started making it for me), then check the waves, surf, eat fresh fruit, body surf, take photos, do some yoga, day dream... all things incredible.
Rochelle & KK on the beach at Pipe.
One morning I woke up, went out on to the deck and heard a "heyyy!!" from behind me. I turned around to see Keala & Jane. We all joked that I had one eye open (and maybe some other problems commonly associated with first waking up) but, my God I was so happy that they had made the drive up from town. I've loved Keala from the first time Roxy & I photographed her (in all actuality, not that long ago). This was my first time meeting Jane but, I instantly had love for her as well. Everyone in the surf world knows Keala Kennelly as a tough, hard charging surfer... which she is... but, she's as sweet as pie as well. Jane is no different... a beautiful belly dancer from middle america that found her love and moved to the islands.
After a quick chat, Rochelle, Keala, Jane & I headed over to V-land. The waves had picked up a lot. Obviously, this was my first time surfing there so, Keala gave me the lay of the land as we paddled out. "Any reef or anything I need to worry about?" I asked. Her reply, "Not really. If you fall, just make sure you fall flat." Oh... great.
Once we were out in the lineup, I finally looked around and realized how beautiful it was there. Just as I was taking it all in I heard Keala yell at me "This one's yours!" I turned around to see a beautiful, beefy wave swinging right towards me. "Go, Ash, go!" she screamed as I paddled my ass off. I didn't have time to consider how big this wave was or where the reef was... I was too pumped up from the beauty of this place and the excitement in Keala's voice. I dropped into this clear blue freight train and flew down the line. That's the one common thing about all Hawaiian waves: Power. Like no other place in the world.
I paddled back out wanting to laugh and scream. Laugh because I felt like Kate Bosworth in Blue Crush (remember when Keala was yelling her into waves at the movie's end?) and scream because of the feeling of pure joy that whipped through my body and mind. I spent the rest of the session watching Rochelle & Keala rip these waves to pieces. When you start thinking you're a fearless charger, you should sit off on the waves shoulder and watch Rochelle pull into barrells you could park a car in. It's humbling, awe inspiring and really just a beautiful thing to watch.
Speaking of which, let me tell you about my experience with Rochelle...
She took me into her house. She made me feel like family. She taught me all about yoga. She made me coffee in the mornings (and didn't get too upset with me when I told her i already had some from Ted's. hah.). She gave me my first coconut. She surfed with me when most locals would rather go fishing (i.e. no waves). I basically learned how to eat from her. Her ways helped me shed 10 pounds there. No joke... that's a pound a day. I think she even helped me become a better surfer because, I've been ripping harder than ever since I came back home. Right Mike? Right Stefan? Right Roxy? (Nevermind... don't answer that). I'll always love my time with her there and I know we'll be friends for a lifetime.
Rochelle & Acai bowls are like two peas in a pod.
The next day, an email from KK:
"I love how you didnt hesitate and just balls out threw yourself into that wave at V-land.
I was so proud of you ;-) 
xo xo xo"
Keala, working my camera over on the bike path. So steamy.
It was amazing to be on the North Shore for the Women's Pipeline Pro. Most of the best female surfers in the world were there and a pretty sizable swell arrived just in time. The shape wasn't perfect but, it was exciting to watch regardless. I spent most of my time at the contest on the beach with Jane, cheering Rochelle & Keala on during their heats. They're both legends in women's surfing and they push things to the limit. If you think girls can't surf... or don't think they're fearless in the same way the guys are... go to Pipe and watch them. Watch Jen Smith step to the nose of her longboard right on the takeoff. Watch Megan Abubo hit a lip. Watch Leah Dawson ride every kind of board imaginable. Watch Cori Schumacher take off deeper than whale shit. Just sit and watch. Not only do these women surf better than me but, I was waxing they're boards, putting their fins in and screaming up and down for them. I probably would have put on an apron and made them dinner had they asked. That's a fact, Jack.
There's so many things about this trip that I'll never forget...
Mitchell and the boys taking me to the homemade skatepark. KK teaching me how to SUP (that was ugly). Rochelle and all of her Aloha... Real Aloha. Leah Dawson's big smile and songwriting. All the laughs with Jane. Busting my nose with my board at Ehukai. Surfing chun's & the driving range with all the girls. Cole & Kuma. Getting into trouble with Kala in front of the Volcom house (thanks Kuma!). The art show. Maria & the night she couldn't stop laughing. Easter morning on Keiki beach. Keala making me her famous eggs benedict the day I left.
The day after I got home I went for a surf with Mike & Roxy and then we all attacked some breakfast. It was really good to see Roxy because she kept my 'Hawaii vibe' going. If it wasn't for her, I wouldn't have met any of these amazing people. Actually, if it wasn't for Roxy, I wouldn't have met... Roxy!
Mahalo to all my friends new & old for making this such an amazing experience for me. Ten days of my life that I shall never forget.
I'll be back soon... earpiece off & scaling a coconut tree.
just another day in paradise
